Hawaii's Oahu is a place that seems like they've never met a visitor who has only ever been there once. People visit, then visit again. Soon, Oahu burned into your travel routine.
In the process, we are supposed to love it, reaching 5.6 million in 2023, taking into account the total air arrivals at Daniel K. Inouye International Airport in Honolulu, each of whom is familiar with slightly different versions of the island. There are people who are attractive for their big surf franchises from the North Shore and food truck. Or Waikiki for shopping. Or Pearl Bay for calm reflection. Or something completely other.
The things my family and I come back to are hiking and star food. Honolulu is one of the best cities on the planet.
Here are my four favorite pairings.
Japanese Restaurants in Ka'iwa Ridge and Bozu
The Kaiwa ridge is located above Kailua's Wailea district on the eastern coast of Oahu. There is the Kalepur Drive trailhead across from the Mid Pacific Country Club. It's not a long hike. You will need to go back up and down in about an hour. And the change in elevation is moderate. However, you may notice that the spots are steep and slippery, so you are using the rope provided.
Along the way, you will be wearing a skirt with ridgeline lips and enjoying higher views of Lanikai Beach and Moklua Island. At the end of the climb, you'll be a colorfully scribbled World War II pillbox where social media influencers may pos for selfies. Ignore them. Make your rewards with cleansing morning sun and sea breeze.
Or perhaps the meal after that day will be like that. Visit Bozun's Japanese restaurant at the modest McCurry Shopping Centre Strip Mall just north of Waikiki's Ala Wai Canal. With all the typical screams and crashing of busy Izakaya, Bozoo serves everything from yakitori to sushi to noodles. But you can't make a mistake with the weekly special. We ate Blinny's crying and the ark bevel, crisp chicken skin, ponts, monkfish liver, pork and beef tongues from the Amiyaki grill. (About $70 for two for a very complete lunch).
Makapu'u lighthouse and Mud Hen Water
The next day we hiked to the Makapui Lighthouse. It's easier than the Ka'iwa Ridge, but it's likely to take twice as long, and climb a little higher. However, the trail is widely paved. You will see people pushing strollers and others in golf carts. The road winds around the rocky southeastern edge of Oahu from a parking lot just off the Karanianall Highway. The lighthouse is located above the rock below and clearly boasts the largest lens of a lighthouse in the United States. Here the sea is deep cobalt blue, and having a sense of the end of the land is worth climbing. It appears that the entire Pacific Ocean is scrolling ahead of you and above the lips on the horizon.
Dinner along Wayla Air Venue is located west on the north side of the H-1 Highway bisecting Honolulu. This neighborhood offers brunches and pipeline bake shops at Kokohead Cafe and try malasadas (a Portuguese doughnut that is extremely popular in Hawaii) and small glazed “cake bombs.” That night we are a place like aloha from a new muddy era, with a mix of Korean, Japanese, European and local flavours all mixed together. Don't launch yourself from the table before you try crisply fried ur (bread fruit), ruao stuffed porcetta, chicken long rice crunchetas, and Japanese curry (about $90 for two).
'AIEA Loop and Liliha Bakery
Dial the intensity and then you can try the 'aiea loop. The loop at the top of 'aiea heights is part of the Keaiwa Heiau State Recreation area. The trail itself is considered moderately stiff, as a narrow track rises and falls, following the ridgeline above the Harawa Valley. This walk goes deep into the lush vegetation of the central Oahu highlands. There, the screeching of birds in the brush and the wind in the long grass contribute to the feeling that you are very far from urban life. Where thick wooden covers are temporarily broken, lookout points and photoshoots offer spectacular views of Oahu's South Shore.
The full loop takes about 3 hours and changes approximately twice the elevation of either the Makapu'u Lighthouse or the Lanikai Pillbox hike. Depending on when you go, there may be far fewer pedestrians than the other two. Don't forget about the water. Consider hiking boots. Store this hike on a dry day as some of the loop trails can be taller above the jungle goage, making the track slippery.
After that, you may feel that you are closer to a “real” version of Oahu than what is possible in the city. This is the feeling of a tourist, but under circumstances it can be allowed. A great restaurant that suits your temporary local status is the Lunch Counter at Liliha Bakery. The famous spot opened in 1950 and appears to have remained largely unchanged since. The Coco Puffs and Poi Mochi Donuts are Honolulu legends. The delicious menu is just as good. Aloha Diner Food at the top edge of the quality scale. There is a full slate for the diner breakfast, but with a side of spam and teriyaki chicken sticks. Next, there is an oxtail soup, saimin noodles, Japanese-style beef curry, plus a loco moco plate – a burger with gravy and fried eggs – I personally fly long distances (less than $20 per person for lunch).
Kuli'ou'ou Ridge, Maguro Brothers, Fujiya Hawaii
Step up the game again and it will take you from the 'aiea loop to the kuli'ou'ou ridge. This walk is medium to difficult. Four hours is probably a good time to budget. Expect to climb over 1,640 feet. This is almost equivalent to about 200 stairs.
Kuli'ou'ou Road continues to Kalaau Place. From the top of the valley, you will eventually take them to the top of the ridge of Kurau before hiking the steep switchback trail leading to the Kurau summit. This is a popular hike and a more difficult hike. Therefore, there will be many friendly people who will compare notes about your progress.
Kuli'ou'ou Ridge is a gorgeous path for the diversity of natural life that it reveals. Climbing the first ascent will pass through the stands of Haole Koa and Guava, but at certain altitudes it will give way to ironwood and cooked pine. Although some of the switchback sections of the trail are rocky, by the time you reach about 1,000 feet of the pines begin, there is a thick, soft needle bed on the trail that suppresses the sound and contributes to a sense of peaceful removal.
Once you reach the Ridgeline, your route will be straightened and proceed towards the Kali'ou'ou summit. Here is the Picnic Rest area. Thank you for bringing me the protein bar. The trail rises from here along steep stairs. It is about 1 kilometer to the top. The final push will take you to one of the best outlook points on the island. Waimanalo and Mokulua Island are located to the north. And as you walk all the way to the southwest you'll get a stunning view of Cocohead Crater.
After this, you may soon be hungry enough to want something. So here we combine two important Honolulu food hits to make a great lunch. Head to the Mauna Kea Market in Chinatown, just off Mauna Kea Street between Hotel and Poach Street. Stand on the line you need to pick up the Tuna Brothers' pile of pork rais bowls. They taste tuna (the precious bluefin tuna) fresh every day and in a range of Kashima, wasabi and avocados. They also offer other fresh options, such as the daffodil otaps with king salmon with rim seaweed and spicy mayo (a lunch of between $13 and $16). For dessert, invest your time crossing the town (20 minutes' drive east of King Street) and sample a selection of shining mochi in Mount Fuji Hawaii. These sweetened rice cakes are stuffed with fruit and stuffing, and stuffed in sweet sugar. A refreshing treat on a hot day from Fujiya Fridges ($10-$12 for a half dozen Mochi). And, conveniently, this is also a place to buy your Senbei Japanese rice crackers and take them home as a gift.
After that, for me anyway, it was a pretty perfect Oahu day. That's right until tomorrow. Or my next visit.
Timothy Taylor is a Vancouver-based travel and food writer. His latest book is the novel The Rise and Fall of Magic Wolf.
Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram and sign up for Travel Dispatch Newsletter for expert tips on smarter travel and inspiration for your next vacation. Are you dreaming of a future vacation or travelling an armchair? See 52 locations in 2025.
