At about 11am on Wednesday in Milan, couple duo Luke and Lucy Meyer, who have been Jil Sander creative directors since 2017, took their bow after their latest runway show.
The applause they receive from the crowd is the last thing they hear in the role. Eight hours later it was announced that they were leaving the brand. The split was a mutual decision, according to a news release.
Their replacements were not announced, and there were no plans for the future for the Meiers.
By today's standards, the couple's run at Jil Sander was a long one. Surviving eight years of top design work is a commendable feat, as short tenure and sudden departures in major homes are shaking the world of fashion. However, their tenure was characterized by lasting changes. In 2021, the brand was acquired by OTB Group, a conglomerate that owns Maison Marguilla and Diesel.
Jil Sander also rotated through a handful of CEOs during the Meiers stint. Previously Fendi's newest CEO, Serge Brunschwigg, arrived last month, increasing the amount of rumors that Meyer was leaving.
When Meyer was appointed to the brand, Jil Sander struggled to find his identity as a postmodern playful, persuasive and marketable, exhibited by Belgian designer Raf Simons as creative director for seven years.
The Meiers pedigree made them an attractive choice. Swiss native, Meyer had more traditional chops than he worked in Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga. She was also the leader of ready-made and couture studios under Mr. Dior's Simons and later Maria Grazia Chiuli.
Meyer's advanced design experience made her Canadian husband more clear. Meier was Supreme's former creative director and launched his own label, OAMC.
At Jil Sander, the couple piloted the label towards austerity, reminiscent of the work of minimalist Maestro on the label's founder Jil Sander.
Especially early on, Meiers' shows were heavy in black and white, with colors and patterns being used as modest as Cayenne. As the gorgeous fashion began to tilt towards the flash of glamour and logo happy, Meyer wasn't afraid to showcase a stark like dark pants with a pencil straight straight with white button-ups.
Eventually, their collection featured butterscotch yellow, lipstick red and blush pink. They woven stripes, chevrons and even animal prints. Meyer's silhouette is wrapped around.
The brand had apprentices during the couple's run, but it appears that Jil Sander could not find, for example, its distinctive items (such as bags and shoes of desire).
With Meiers joining a list of ever-growing designers and finishing the post in recent months, Jil Sander has found himself in a competitive market for luxury labels looking for new creative directions. Currently, Gucci, Dior men and Fendi are all designers.
Wednesday's show made no epic statement. Instead, it was a neat packaging of Meyer's refined trends. There was a wrapping officer overcoat, a high-gloss leather jacket, fur accents and a prim gown with Stark black suits.
A specific idea – a sweater made of flyaway feathers, a gradient blended into the floral print around the collar, and a dress with a pristine bow – suggests something bigger, whimsical under the surface.
Behind the scenes after the show, Meiers posed with OTB Group CEO Renzo Rosso. Tears could be seen in Meyer's eyes, and Rosso offered to wear a sleeve to clean them up. The designers did not answer questions from the press, but that night they planned an event that could only be interpreted as a leaving party. That title? “It's all love.”