The long ride from the International Airport to Yogacarta on Java Island, Indonesia, has a virtue of alleviating Jet Lag travelers through the Liminal Zone of Rice Paddy Plains and Jungle Hills. After that, the lively big cities ended, and everything is a business and hot tropical cities. On the bicycle market, which was once called “Kotasepeda”, the streets resounded with billions of scooters.
There are a few millions of people who are swarming Bali swimming on both sides and traveling a side trip to Yogyakarta. It is a place of cultural and intelligent fermentation, which is operated by the respected royal family. It is not easily analyzed.
The first thing you notice after a flock of scooters is a stall that is a stall that is a stall from a small stand to a de facto outdoor restaurant. These routes and alleys often break the sidewalk, boasts that this jack fruit stew (gudeg) has a perfect recipe or eats a young goat's “legendary” satate. I am.
I searched for yogia for more than two weeks, but started with food that moved from Warun to Warun and restaurant for more than a few days. I am a 39 -year -old Ticoscarso, a transplant of Jakarta, which runs a Yogira Restaurant until the end of Cobid, and is currently operating a kind of pop -up cooking club. I ate the fried noodles (Bakumi Goren) and ate a free range chicken (Ayam Goreng Kampong) with a sweet hot sunbal as follows. For breakfast at 7:00 am, I found a Warung of Bu Sukardi, which made soft tofu that is wobbly wobbling with the burning injections of raw INGER and palm sugar (Wedang Tahu).
One night, to show the more formal aspect of yoga, Scarso met me at the gorgeous Java restaurant, Grill Dahar RB. Beef milk stew, tofu, boiled eggs, lemony bitter herbs called Merringo.
“We love peanuts,” said Scarso. “I love things with a lot of fat in the sauce, such as gadgado and Lotek peanut sauce.” , Fat, sweet.
Between meals, I am in museums, many art galleries, annual contemporary art shows, countless barista -style coffee shops for morning markets, ice rivers, classic dance performances, and in a sultry space on the floor Muslim clothes from the Hamzovatic Store, the most famous Battic Emporium in the city where I went to drug cabaret. Classic dance included an exquisite gesture and the movement of the body set in the Gamelan Orchestra. The drug show was a fun explosion of the pure pop camp, and a Hijab fan posed drag stars and selfies.
One of the reasons I returned to Yogia for the first time since the 1980s is the designation of Sliver in 2023, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site was built in the 18th century by Sultan, who still dominates the area politically and mentally. It consists of animist, Hinduism, Buddhism, and Muslims' beliefs, and the symbols, and symbols.
This area surrounded by cities seems to be modest and modest. It contains small monuments, many gates, several fortresses, low mosques, tamansari, which are now disturbed, a nice complex in the garden, or two sets of sacred Banyan trees. At the center is Klonton, a multi -building palace on the premises of trees, and some of them are occupied by the 10th Sultan in Yogyakarta and his administration. One building has an animation display on the cycle of Java's life and rituals. In the open pavilion, a daily dance and puppet show occur. The most beautiful one is the practice dance on Sunday morning when the performers receive guidance from the master.
One thing appears. If you slow down the pace of tourists and pay attention at the Kronton and the nearby Sonobudoyo Museum, the yogi culture is complicated, inward reversal, rhythmical, immersed in symbols, and always needs good decoding. The most famous local dance performance is La Mayana, an epic of ancient Hindu, but this is a mosque country that seems to call for a prayer for prayer in all blocks. mosquito? I look at the Hijab everywhere, what do Mecca authorize a drug show fans wearing a hijab?
Two religions, two temples
For a breathtaking sight, head to the two magnificent structures that praise the relevant religions built within 100 years by the related kingdom and the complex of ancient temples outside the city called Borobudur. It was immediately destroyed, abandoned, restored, and now UNESCO's site has been important. 。
Plan Vanan is a huge collection of volcanic rocks that go back to the 9th century. The biggest temple surrounded by rescue sculptures climbs to enter rooms, including statues such as Shiva, Ganesha, and Durger. Immediately after the construction, this site was probably destroyed by a nearby active mount melapy eruption. Of the 240 original temples, only the central temples were reorganized in the 20th century, so there are countless mountains of tiled tiles in less buildings on this site. It is a place where the creature of humans is facing the creative destruction of the earth, even if it is not a destroyer Shiva.
Borobudur, the world's largest Buddhist temple, is 30 miles away from the volcano. Also, being abandoned hundreds of years after the decline of Buddhism and the rise of Islam is most likely to have been built in the 9th century. Here, as the Buddhist scholar, Fudaya Kanda Hiya, who was educated at Berkeley, was the “Mountain of Dharma” and was created for guidance for worship. Almost 400 feet square and 10 levels in height. Visitors climb from the lower area, study the sculpture panels on the temptation on the ground, climb the tops that have not been decorated, and express their enlightenment. There are three levels where the 72 large bell -shaped hollow pagoda resounds to see the Buddha.
After the axis and the temple, I felt lucky. I met a 72 -year -old Siti Adiyati, a famous artist in the local royal family. When asked about the cosmic axis, she invited me to her house. Adyati is a social activist against Indonesia Academy at an prestigious yoga art school in the 1970s.
In an outdoor pavilion on the site of her big house, she was drawing a huge infographic on the dry errage board. This was an accessory of Kronton and its universe, including the eight gates of symbolic importance. Note how the axis points to the melapy that is holding the north. To the south is the open sea, which is the home of the goddess, which approaches local myths. Adyati also drew Mandala, including Mandala -type Borobudur. There was a manga of Hinduism, which Adyati learned as a Jawdance student when he was young, and a gesture that originated in Buddhism.
“This” she said. She waved in her complex job and laughed, “I'm me”, so she means her city.
Village in the city
“If you are alone, you can work fast,” said the artist Langa Plubaya (48 years old), one afternoon near the huge Banyan tree of the modern art space, Jogya National Museum. I explained when I drank coffee (I use an old spell in the city. Name). “But if you are in the group, you can go far away.”
Plubaya, who often deals with photographs of the victims of mass murder in anti -communist in 1965, explained the community of cities represented by many artists. Eventually he manages it.
Many claimed that Yogia was a more shared city than when he dodged a scooter. Nona yoanisarah, 32, an artist with a side gig that improves the AI output of an American company: That is not the case. It's a small city, but it has a big meaning. “
To feel that, you have to walk in Campon. These are lumps of layout houses like a small street village in the city. Campon must walk without a destination. You can see cats, bugs raised in a wander, screaming birds with delicate cages, walls and doors with nice shades, and chicken that boast countless potted plants.
One of my favorite Campon is the eastern area of Water Castle and Pasalungasem Market. This is an area that has penetrated several tourists, but as it hits old royal walls and buildings, it is still wonderful and varied in its architecture. The other is a campon near the Matalam Mosque of the massage degeed in the old city area of Kotageed. The oldest 18th century mosque in the city should be seen in the gates and wall building styling that incorporates Hindu motifs that have long influenced Java design.
After that, walk east and south through Warren at home. Campon begins with wealth (Try a flashy coffee in a long -can -can -can -can -can -can -can -go cafe or find a funky Ban Yang Sade Legian cafe, and then drift south in a tree, animal, and chambolic shared space. 。
You are now a certified yoga visitor, as you looked at the temple, sampled Walunds, walked along the Campon, imagined the cosmic axis. One of the other locals who lived in Sacramento and Chiang Mai, Thailand, in other places, told me that “tourists coming to Yogia are back.”
It's a yoga universe, we just visit it.
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