The raw truth about raw milk

But today, a small but growing number of Americans prefer to drink their milk raw. And Robert F. Kennedy Jr., President Donald Trump's pick to lead the Department of Health and Human Services, is now a vanguard of the movement. President Kennedy has said he drinks raw milk and has criticized, among other things, the Food and Drug Administration's “aggressive curbs” on raw milk production. Enthusiasts expect him to make raw milk more accessible as HHS secretary, but it's still unclear how. Federal regulations prohibit the sale of raw milk across state lines, but where it is legal, raw milk is regulated by state governments rather than federal agencies.

By embracing raw milk, President Kennedy is not only leading the way but also following an established trend. The roots of this movement go back decades. For example, a small independent health food store that my parents frequented in New Mexico in the 1980s sold raw milk. (We never participated.) But to hear Mark McAfee speak, the pandemic has caused a surge in demand.

Mr. McAfee heads Law Farm, one of the nation's largest raw milk producers, located in California. Mr. McAfee, who said Mr. Kennedy is a client, applied for an advisory position at HHS at the recommendation of Mr. Kennedy's transition team, he said. McAfee said that during the pandemic, people felt abandoned by medical professionals and began researching ways to take care of their immune systems. Although many people turned to raw milk, he called it “the first food of life.” Perhaps people thought they could protect themselves from the coronavirus, but this is an unproven idea that stems from the observation that breast milk provides some protection to breastfed infants from infection. He says it's possible.

Anecdotes of seemingly miraculous cures with raw milk also help fuel this phenomenon, such as inflammatory diseases going into remission and allergies and digestive problems disappearing. McAfee was eager to share those stories. Nevertheless, his customers are not easily categorized. When he started selling raw milk 25 years ago, hippie “nut and berry moms” and natural foods enthusiasts, in his words, formed McAfee's core customers. But as his sales have grown (he estimates they've increased about 30 times since then), his clientele has diversified.

Today's raw milk movement is comprised of people and ideas from across the political spectrum. Health enthusiasts seeking the latest superfoods. These are liberals who don't trust authority and, as McAfee describes it, are trying to do the opposite of what the FDA says. The movement has been given various labels, including “food sovereignty,” “slow food,” “real food,” and “food freedom.” For those with a more conspiratorial mindset, raw milk means food free from government interference. For those simply following the latest trends, raw milk may be a status symbol. It can cost close to $20 per gallon.