A few weeks before the Manhattan vintage show opened this month, its owner, Amy Abrams, predicted “Fur Palooza,” with vendors defending rising demand for fur. “It's happening now,” she said.
Fox, mink and Mongolian racks in booths, including Igara NYC and Jenny Walker Archives, sold sable coats for $2,495, but many flocked to shoppers who were already wearing fur.
One shopper, Lulu Din of Jersey City, New Jersey, purchased a chinchilla coat from 1stdibs years ago. She was not in the market for new ones, as a collection of about 10 furs had been acquired over the years. “I already have the best,” she said.
Vintage Far a Palooza in Manhattan was not an isolated incident. As New York's temperatures entered its teens and twenties in January, women and men across town broke fur with storage in what felt like a sudden reversal of social attitudes.
After decades of coordinated campaigns, organizations like PETA have been found to have protests and even personal attacks in workplaces and people's homes, including personal attacks outside stores and fashion shows. The anti-farming movement led at last changed the tide with their favor. Many brands and customers have decided that furless looks better.
It happened slowly – Calvin Klein banned fur in 1994. Ralph Lauren in 2006 – and at once. After Gucci announced in 2017 that it would eliminate real fur in its collection, it was followed by big, luxurious fashion houses including Michael Kors, Burberry, Prada, Versace, Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs. Since introducing her label in 2001, Stella McCartney has been a fiercely vocal animal and an abusive advocate. Founded in 1925 as a Roman fur and leather shop and owned by LVMH, Fendi is one of the last luxurious holdouts.
By 2021, Kering, the parent company of Gucci, which also owns Balenciaga, St. Laurent and McQueen, has issued a ban on the entire fur group. So did Hudson's Bay, a Toronto retailer who owned Saks Fifth Avenue and started as a fur trading business in 1670. Macy's, Bloomingdale and Neiman Marcus have stopped selling new fur. In 2023, California enforced a law banning the sale of new fur products.
The fur industry had been shrinking for years. According to The Fur Free Alliance, global fur production has declined by 85% over the past decade. Approximately 20 million animals died as part of the 2023 fur trade and 140 million fur trade in 2014. The number of fur farms in the European Union fell to 1,088 in 2023 from 4,350 in 2018 to 1,088 (the main exception is many fur. Free fashion houses and retailers use sheepskin and cowhide It is sold. Of course, this has simple old leather.
For years, in much of the US and Europe, wearing real fur felt taboo. However, some people suddenly seem unconscious. Especially since animals are killed new and old clothes are noble than buying new ones if the wearer can claim a “vintage” mantle.
In some cases, vintages don't always mean affordable prices. 1STDIBS site reported a 14% increase in fur sales in 2023 and 2024. Notable purchases included a 1997 Gucci Fox Fur Chubby, which sold for $30,257.41 last year.
Rihanna was photographed in December wearing a vintage John Galliano Mink. Last month, Kendall Jenner, Kylie Jenner and Haley Bieber were found in aspen in various fur coats. Kendall Jenner has been wearing vintage Balenciaga fox fur since 2011, but it was difficult to distinguish between the other furs – real or fake? – No confirmation. Jenners representatives and stylists for Ms. Bieber did not respond to requests for clarification.
Whitney Robinson, 42, a New York hospitality entrepreneur and editor, also spent his December holiday in Aspen in a full-length coyote court, which he described as “part of the Salvador Dali.” He bought a coat from Crowley Vintage in Brooklyn two years ago.
“The response depends on where you are,” Robinson said. “In St. Moritz, fur is everywhere – maybe it's Milanese – so no one hits his eyes. Aspen was the same this year. Everyone loved it. 20 at Vail Airport. A teenager gave me a thumbs up and said he loves my kit.”
The full-length Eve St. Laurent Mink, 34, a lawyer living in East Village in New York, wore the Metropolitan Museum of Art last afternoon, and last month's afternoon, was her mother's. It was. She bought it in Chicago when she was a flight attendant in the 1970s.
“This was her big purchase,” Connery said. “She had a payment plan. Her name is embroidered,” she pointed out that giving it was her mother's idea. “She said: “I see a lot of girls wearing vintage fur. Do you want mine?”
Carly Mark, a doll and doll designer for the Fashion Line/Art Project, recently moved from New York to Paris. “Everyone wears fur here too,” she said.
After years of using faux fur, Mark began working with Rikal's furry fur at last year's runway collection.
“What I learned from that process is that I really love fur,” she said specifically about the vintage. “It's beautiful and already exists,” though, she received a significant anti-farm backlash online after the doll and puppet show in the fall of 2024.
“I think people really misunderstand vintage fur and fake fur,” Mark said. In her eyes, vintage is a great sustainable option. She cited fake fur fiber plastics and microplastics, often made from petroleum-based materials, as “the bigger picture environment is worse.”
Marie La Fort, a fashion stylist on New York's Lower East Side and owner of Antien Vintage, said “it's confusing the whole debate.” Lafort sold his collection of vintage fur 10 years ago. “No one seems to be bothered right now,” she said.
“old the Old” appears to be a philosophy that promotes the revival of fur. At least a handful of heirlooms, vintage fur, or fur, it's good. Fur is part of the popular Tiktok aesthetics such as “The Wife of the Mob”, and has decadent amalgams of fur coats, leather, leopard prints, and “old money” with symbols of wealth It is adjacent to the “rich girl”.
Is it a coincidence that the prominence of the fur stands out against the new political order and the nostalgia of Reagan-era culture? Perhaps no one loved a fur coat more than Ivana Trump.
“Vintage fur may be one of the few that still find fans across the ideological spectrum,” said Anthony Barzilay Freund, editorial director of 1stdibs. “For conservatives, coats can be worn acquiescedly, down to what they consider to be a post-PC world. For liberals, they have a commitment to retro chic recycling. It is a permanent symbol of
The popularity of the fur's appearance has not been noticed by animal rights groups. PETA is pleased with the surge in faux fur, but those who chose vintage fur think it's misguided if it's well-intentioned.
“These are people who don't usually dream of buying new fur because they don't want to support violent and cruel industries,” said Ashley Byrne, director of outreach communications at PETA. “I still support the idea that crushing animal bones with traps, electrocuting them, or gassing them is acceptable.”
Animal rights groups view vintage fur as a dangerous trend. “If someone sees someone wearing used fur and doesn't know that it's being used, they can buy new fur,” says the director of fashion policy at the American Humane Society. One PJ Smith said.
Mark Oten is the CEO of the International Fur Federation, a fur trade organization, and therefore his loyalty is straight in real fur. He is based in the UK and is perhaps the most advanced animal rights movement in the world. Founded in 1824, the Society for Preventing Animal Cruelty is the world's oldest animal welfare organization. England and Wales were the first countries to ban fur farming in 2000. The fur has been redundant there for decades, but Oten witnessed a new embrace of vintage fur among people in their 30s and 40s.
“I think that was the problem when animal rights groups mentioned that they were lectured about people and tried to ban what mainstream people wanted,” he said. Oten suspects that the backlash against activism is profiting the sale of fur. If it's not scientific from a data perspective, emotions are certainly in the air.